Things to Do in Libya in May

May's gentle warmth and longer days are good for the kind of slow, detailed exploration these vast sites demand. The light is soft enough for photography in the golden hours, and the sea breeze off the coast at Sabratha or Leptis Magna takes the edge off the midday sun. You'll want hours to trace the patterns in the mosaic floors, not just a quick photo stop.

The humidity hasn't yet reached its sticky summer peak, making a morning spent navigating the covered souqs and climbing to the rooftop of the Karamanli House mosque a more pleasant proposition. The smell of roasting coffee beans from the old Turkish cafes mixes with the scent of damp stone and jasmine from hidden courtyards. You can still hear the individual calls of vendors rather than just a wall of sound.

The highlands are at their most forgiving in May. The almond and olive trees are in leaf, providing patches of shade on the winding roads up to villages like Gharyan, famous for their troglodyte dwellings carved into the soft rock. The air is noticeably cooler and drier than on the coast, and the views over the pre-desert plains are crystal clear, before the summer haze sets in.

This is the month to experience the dramatic contrast between desert and sea. The road east from Tripoli towards Zliten and Misrata passes through sparse scrubland that suddenly gives way to brilliant turquoise water. The beaches, like those near Farwa Island or the stretches west of Sabratha, are empty save for local fishermen mending their nets. The water is cool and clear.